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My Recent Posts · (01/31/08

Tags : grate mod, sealing rideplate, trim mod, pump shimming, strainer, mods

New guys come on the forums all the time asking what they should do first. Here is the list I give and most other owners will too.

1 Shredmaster rideplate Yes they are expensive, Yes they are worth every penny.

2 Aftermarket sponsons. About your only choices are beach house or ada.

3 Pump. Check your wear ring clearance pull a shim if you can. There is another post in this thread that gives more details.

4 Heads You can have your stock ones cut or use R&D, ADA or Skiworx 42cc if you want to stay pump gas safe.

5 Impeller. Solas 16/20 or you can have your stock one modded with some good results.

6 Skiwoworx stinger mod.

Also worth mentioning is the tripple pisser mod, It wont make you go faster but it might just keep you going. Skiworx offers part of these and some other mods such as the cv carb mod in the level 1.

This list will get you well on your way. Your ski will handle much better with some good gains in acceleration and speed. How much further you go is only limited by imagination and funding.

My Recent Posts · (01/31/08

These are a few pics of how to mod a stock intake grate for the ultra 150. This setup works best on flat water it will gain speed compared to a stock or a scoup type grate. For my setup it gained me 1.3 mph combined with a slight mod to the shreadmaster. I was running a r&d grate that had been ground and polished. The first pic is where to cut it. The second is what it looks like when you are done. Notice the bars have been thinned out some and all the casting flash removed. The third pic is where the mounting tab was thinned to bring the grate higher in the hull. The "ramps" also need to be ground so they are smothe and meet the pump shoe evenly.

Here is some more info and comparison pics http://ultra150.yuku.com/sreply/16764/t/Btldigger-s-2000-ultra-project.html

My Recent Posts · (01/31/08

This is another common question. The pic of the stock plate with the R&D extension came from the archives section. The shredmaster is mine rite before installation, notice where the silacone is at. When sealing besure to clean off as much old sealant as possible. Clean the area with alcohol or acetone works well. Pay particular attention to the eyeglass seal. The ends of the seal are a common area for air leaks. The pic below of the black seal that looks like a pair of glasses is what is ment by "eyeglass seal"
The last pic shows what it should look like when you are done. If you are installing your shred for the first time you may need to grind down a few places to make it fit flush to slightly recessed in the hull. Test fit the plate and grate before sealing to make sure it all fits correctly. Then take it back off and seal it use a little blue locktite on all the bolts.

My Recent Posts · (01/31/08

Most of you reading this may have already had your pump apart or have heard others talk about shimming a pump. As a general rule take out shims till the impeller hits the wear ring then put 1 back. While you have it out its a good time to do some general pump cleanup. I cant say what the exact gain is but it sure cant hurt. You mainly want to get rid of any casting lines and flash arround the stator vanes. You may also have a lip at the tail cone that can be smothed out, When you are done put an alignment mark across the cone and stator housing so you reassemble it the same way. Dont forget to tighten the impellar back up, if it backs off you will get an unexplained bog that is hard to find. It will also destroy your impeller and possibly your wear ring. I know this first hand it happened to me. Guess I was too busy taking pictures

If you cant get your wear ring clearance down to factory spec or less it is probably time to replace the impeller, wear ring or send it off for a bluprint job. Skiworx can do this for you if needed. If you dont know how many hour are on your bearings and seals you might want to think about replacing them. Its cheaper than the damage it can do!

My Recent Posts · (01/31/08

This is for later models that dont have the 2 front air intakes. You can purchase the early intake from kawi but it is expensive, here is the cheap way. All the parts for this can be purchased at home depot. You will need a shop vac hose, 2 couplings, 2 fernco reducers from the plumbing aisle and a few stainless screws. Use a hole saw to cut the 2 holes out in the front large enough for the couplers the pics explain the rest. You can also cut the hood liner inside the gill slits, then cut holes in the liner over the bucket. A couple of large holes cut in the bucket will let the air in. Your bucket wont be dry anymore, but was it ever

My Recent Posts · (01/31/08

This trick has been arround awhile. This one is easy and free. Start by taking the trim rod lose from the L bracket. Then remove the ball joint from the end of the trim rod. Leave the jamb nut on the rod. Take a dremmel and cut about 1/4 - 3/8 inch off the end of the rod. Then you can run the nut forward to clean up the threads. Run the nut all the way back the put the balljoint back on all the way against the nut. This will give you more up trim, It will help top speed and make it jump on almost any wave at full up. If you need it to settle down then just trim back down or shift your weight forward.

My Recent Posts · (01/31/08

This applies if you are trying to put a later model starter on a set of 99 or 00 cases. If you look up the part # you will notice it is different from 00 to the 01 and later models. The starter is larger from 01 and up. If you are trying to use it on an early model there is a boss for one of the case bolts that will hit the starter body. All you have to do is take a dremmel or other suitable tool and grind the boss back for clearance. You may find this easier if you unbolt the engine rotate it. The black case below is an early case with a 04 starter. You can see the boss in the pic. The gray case is an 04 notice the shorter boss.

My Recent Posts · (01/31/08

Ok here is my latest mod, it wont make it go faster but it will keep it going. I installed a groko strainer in the water supply lines. The ultra is known for stopping up head fittings. This is why the tripple pisser mod is so good. It lets you know you plugged one. The strainer keeps the trash out. If you ride this time of year the water is full of leaves this can stop a fitting and kill your motor. I killed mine last year for this very reason. When buying a strainer be sure it is rated for presure if not it will break and leave you on a sinking boat :smt100

The one pictured is a wsb500 from groco, its rated for 150 psi. Notice there is a barb fitting zip tied to the waterline in case of emergency. Keep in mind that if you dont have the pissers you might not know you filled your strainer full of crap. Be prepared for a meltdown. You may find it easier to get a new length of hose. With this location the stock hose isnt long enough. You can see in the one pic where the hose comes in from the pump. It also shows where the old pisser fittings are looped together. Be sure to zip tie the hose down so it cant bounce into drive shaft or coupling.

My Recent Posts · (03/05/08

Thanks for taking the time to post the detailed pics for us newbe's ! Mike

My Recent Posts · (03/05/08

No problem. I actually wound up with it in a better order here than over at gh. Now that we are on yuku the pics are much easier to post. Before all I could put up was links. I have pics of almost any part of an ultra you could want to see. They are all posted on my photo bucket album.

My Recent Posts · (05/04/08

I have been having problems with my motor eating v force reads. It is a ported leve 2, it is running reed spacers and as of now is turnning 7200 rpm. After talking to others and checking the archives this has been a problem when pushing the rpm up such as with tripples and the level 2. The 2 most common solutions seem to be run M16 cages with stock reed petals or put stock reeds in. If you have a/m carbs and manifolds then you will find the hole in the reed stuffer is smaller than the manifold. The solution is to remove the reed stuffers from the cages. You may have to use a screwdriver to help pop the stuffer out. Here is a link to the original post from the archives and some pics of the reed cages and manifolds.

http://www.ultra150.yuku.com/topic/1923

My Recent Posts · (08/30/08

Ok this is for those running tripples or a really hot single pipe. Lets start with the parts needed.

3 1/4mpt x 1/2 barb 90 ( same as the existing water log fitting or exhaust dump)
1 1/4mpt x 3/8 barb 90 ( if you need water for stingers)
1 1/2 x 1 1/2 npt nipple
2 1/2 npt x 1/2 barb
7/16 drill bit
1/4 npt tap
3/4 spade bit
urethane adhesive / silacone
20ft 1/2" heater hose
pipe thread sealant
6 1/2" hose clamps

Ok here is how to do it. Remove the water log and drill 2 7/16 holes either side of the existing water inlet tap with 1/4npt tap. Now install the 1/4 x 1/2 barb 90s in the new holes and install 1/4 x 3/8 barb 90 into the original inlet. Next remove the pump and drill a 7/16 hole on the left hand side ( opposite the steering cable) in the stator section and tap with 1/4" npt tap, install 1/4 x 1/2 barb 90 pointed up. Now drill a 3/4" hole in the topleft corner of the pump tunnel next to the pump shoe, wollow it out slightly so the 1/2 nipple fits through it. Install 1 of the 1/2 npt x 1/2 barb fittings on the nipple and slide it through the hole in the transome and install the other fitting. Use the urethane adhesive to seal up the inside and silacone on the outside, probably should let this sit overnight. Next install new water lines to the water log and route them to the inlets. Use zip ties to tie them down so they cant get into the coupler. The 3/8 fitting can be used to feed your stinger mod or split up for the stingers on tripples. Ok heres the pics so all this make sense

My Recent Posts · (08/30/08

Are you really going to run triple cooling? what are you planning for getting all that water OUT of your motor? You do want some heat in the motor to produce power but you don't want to run hot. Ken

My Recent Posts · (08/30/08

Tripple? There are only 2 lines from the pump, the center fitting in the log is the supply line to stingers. I did that instead of putting a t in one of the supply lines.

My Recent Posts · (08/30/08

Ok so you actually have to READ ALL the thread instead of skipping to the end.LOL My Bad. I tried the dual cooling early on with the Stxr but I used a dedicated line to the stinger and it kept blowing off either at the Stinger or at the pump. Good right up. Ken

My Recent Posts · (08/30/08

Great info Morris... Might be next weekends project.

My Recent Posts · (08/31/08

Kinda thought you might find that usefull.

My Recent Posts · (08/31/08

btldigger wrote:
Tripple? There are only 2 lines from the pump, the center fitting in the log is the supply line to stingers. I did that instead of putting a t in one of the supply lines.

My water log looks exactly the same but I did tee the second pump line to feed the outer two barbs on the water log. All my pump water enters here and the pipes are fed off the head fittings. The exhaust manifold barbs dump water overboard and the exit barbs on the end of the pipes do the same.

My Recent Posts · (08/31/08

I'm not sure I need that much cooling. but it would be a cool project anyway. Did you file down the fitting in the pump to be even with the inner pump edge?

My Recent Posts · (08/31/08

Didnt have to file it just stopped when it was flush.

My Recent Posts · (08/31/08

Are you going to run 2 strainers? Also what about running on the hose?

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